Les Îles Marquises

Ua Pou

To sum up the trip down from the captain’s point of view, crew and vessel exceeded expectations. I enjoyed every moment other than the calms, but 39 days is a long time. It is kind of a major thing but it doesn’t seem like a big deal now that we are here.  At sea each day is much the same as the day before. You just deal with things like you would anywhere else though land keeps getting farther away. The thing is, is that you can’t comprehend the distance; you always think that land is just over the horizon. I thought a lot about it after we arrived and figured I wouldn’t be talking Tra into a 40 day passage anytime soon but now, after 3 weeks here I think she would go in a second if told her there were islands more beautiful than these at the end of it. Anyway, Suuhaa performed, no major weather incidents and we caught more fish than we could eat. Good times all round.

We spent our first week in the Marqueses anchored in Baie Takauku, the harbor for the town of Atuona on the Island of Hiva Oa. We arrived late in the afternoon on a Friday and had resigned ourselves to be quarantined on the boat till Monday morning when the Gendarme would be back at work to clear us in. On Saturday morning I was up  

early with the skiff in the water and rowed over to a neighbouring boat flying the solid yellow “Q” flag (meaning they also were not cleared in) and soon found out from our new friends, Bruce and Cheryl, that all was good and as long as we checked in on Monday no one would mind if we landed. They had done some leg work and as it happened they were about to meet an agent who, for a very reasonable price, took care of it all: customs, immigration, bond exemption and a duty free fuel permit. Next thing we knew we were on shore hiring and supplying the agent with photo copies of our papers.

Atuona is the second largest settlement of the islands (pop 1500) and is a convenient port of entry for yachts arriving from the east. The harbor is frequented buy supply ships from Papeete, Tahiti and yachts anchor further into the harbor to accommodate them. There is a constant swell requiring you to set a stern anchor. The town, although reported to be half a mile walk is actually about 3km. We walked this numerous times but often would get a ride from a passing local. The town has a few stores, a hospital, bank, hardware store, post office, two restaurants and a Paul Gagnon museum. There were also a few vendors selling produce and eggs from the back of a truck.  

We spent our first week here getting organized but between the heat and being mute in French we didn’t get much done. Take internet for example, we bought time from the local provider who basically delivers the service via cell towers as a “hot spot” but with only one bar of reception it wasn’t possible to stay connected long enough to do anything constructive. In town we tried at the post office where they had a computer for public use. This was even worse as the letters on the keyboard were in all the wrong places and the written instructions and friendly human assistance were in French. After a half hour of getting somewhere in 90 degree heat the connection reset and we lost everything. I had a spaz and we went back to the boat. Frustrations aside, we enjoyed our first week immensely. We met many cruisers, all of who were very impressed we came straight from Canada (even though it is only 200nm farther than Panama). The first night was “cook’s night off” and we devoured French pizza accompanied by huge goblets of wine. As far as general comfort goes, we are in very good shape. I was worried about how hot the cabin would get but the breezes always seem to blow and keep the cabin a very comfortable temperature. The bugs have also not been too bad; they are terrible on the beach but the biting ones have not made it to the boat yet. Tra is my best insect repellent, they find her juicier than me.

Baie d'Hanamonea

We did make a short visit to the local hospital after I carved another Merganser gash into my right hand. We steri-stripped  it up and when we saw the doctor the next day, he promptly ripped them off, said it was too late for stitches (which I had repeatedly told Tra he would say) and sent us on our way, wound gaping once again. Keeping it dry the next few days was a challenge (there is a nice little surf break in Atuona) and Tra had to row the dinghy everywhere. This was a great source of entertainment for all the other captains in the bay.  At the time of this writing, it’s all healed up and I have a handsome scar as a souvenir.  

tikis

After a week in Atuona with supplies, stores, water (R.O. quit), and fuel on board we departed for the neighboring island of Tahuata. We sailed across the channel to the south and around the N.W. corner of Tahuata where slightly down the eastern shore lies what some have called one of the most beautiful anchorages in the South Pacific, Baie Hanamoena. We anchored in the middle of the bay amongst 12 other boats in crystal clear water. We knew a number of the boats from our stay in Atuona and were promptly invited to a beach bbq. 

We spent 4 nights in this paradise. Our activities included diving for lobster, fishing, and hunting chicken and wild boar. All of which we were miserably unsuccessful. During these pursuits we were able to enjoy some unexpected successes. While diving for lobster we got to see manta rays, barracuda, moray eels and a few 6 foot reef sharks. I caught numerous small fish though we did not eat them as the risk of Ciguatera poisoning is high in this particular bay. During our hunting escapades Tra was able to pick fruit which we are still eating.  The end of each day was filled mainly with drinking wine while strumming the ukulele for my appreciative audience of one. 

Chicken hunting

Wild limes

Our next stop was Baie D’Hakahau, the main harbor on the island of Ua Pou. After an overnight motor sail from Tahuata, we pulled in and set two anchors in what might be the shadow of the most dramatic skyline I have ever seen. Ua Pou was a nice stop and I got to catch a few waves at a surf break I could paddle to from the boat. We enjoyed a music festival and Marquesian BBQ. Best of all we found lettuce at the general store and had a massive Caesar salad for dinner! After 4 nights there we sailed the 25nm channel to Nuka Hiva.

Daniel’s Bay is located on the S.W. corner of the Island of Nuka Hiva. It has been a long time favorite of cruising sailors because of the awesome beauty, a hike to the third highest waterfall in the world and the warm hospitality of a local named Daniel. It was further made famous by a certain reality T.V. show. Supposedly the T.V. show flattened Daniels house so he’s gone. We made friends with a local couple and found out all the villagers got paid a bunch of money to move out of their homes for 3 months of filming. They all were pretty pleased with the cash.  We met Teiki and Kua on our hike up to the water fall as we trespassed on their property. Kua waved us over to talk, but it was her husband Teiki I was looking at and little unsure. Here came this dude with a Mohawk, giant bone through his ear and tattoos covering one half of his face, head and body. I was soon put at ease by his smile and we were then invited to lunch after our hike. 

Daniel's Bay

Wild boar hunting

The hike to waterfall was fantastic; it was 4-5km up a deep jungle valley along a trail built by a civilization I know nothing about. Everywhere you looked were the remnants of the stone platforms that the Marquesians built their houses upon. The entire trail was build like the sea to sky highway - on top of a wall. The waterfall plunged off a mountain top into a box canyon that was so high and narrow the sun only shines for a few minutes a day. After lunch we ended up spending the day getting to know Teiki and Kua. Teiki kept us entertained with coconut husking competitions and stories of his great hunting and fishing escapades. He gave me all kinds of fishing tips and I am now committed to returning to smuggle 22 shells for him. The next day we returned with gifts of fish hooks and chocolate chip cookies. 

After Daniel’s Bay we sailed in the company of two other boats for a squally 5nm passage to windward and arrived at the main town of the islands, Taiohae. Here we anchored amongst about 30 other boats to take fuel and provisions (water maker is working again!).  The demographic of the “cruising community” has been quite a surprise. We were pretty sure we would be hanging out with old people and often joked about this before we left. Turns out, there are lots of couples in the 55+ range but there are almost as many couples our age and many with multiple kids. Kids younger than yours too. I overheard a guy saying he and his wife are staying here for two months to deliver a baby! Wow! So our best hope of finding work is probably starting a floating day care!

From here we will be sailing around Nuka Hiva to Baie Anaho for a couple of days before we depart for the 500nm crossing to the Tuamotu archipelago. We are only planning a few nights there and will then continue to the island of Tahiti.

That's a hammerhead!