Marquesan style

“A tourist remains an outsider throughout his visit, but a sailor is part of the local scene from the moment he arrives.”

- Ann Davison

Baie d'Anaho

So much for two weeks in the Marquesas. We expected beauty; we expected friendly cruisers and hoped for hospitable locals. I can tell you that what we have experienced has been way beyond anything you could imagine. We travel now in the company of two other boats and greet other cruisers as old friends when we arrive or they arrive in some ridiculously beautiful anchorage. As we sputter the French that I scantily remember from grade 9, the Marquesans giggle at us and welcome us into their restaurants, onto their beaches and even into their homes. 

In Baie d’Anaho, we pleasantly bobbed around on our anchor and breezes sifted through the open hatches. I had taken down the laundry I scrubbed at the tap near the beach yesterday while Bradley was off sniffing out mangos with which we made brew like the locals. Often we were going to leave “tomorrow” but why rush? We’ve been in these islands for almost two months, there’s no sense rushing through paradise.

Ichiban with Justin and Anna

Patrick on Ik'a

Visiting this bay had been a part of our plan for a while, since Tahautau. It was there we met an older French couple who are on their 4^th pass through these islands. Brad charmed them with his extensive French – “Bonjour!” and they have been sharing their experiences and advice ever since. This was a bay they told us not to miss. Again, we had planned a short stay, maybe three or four days, and then we would sail on to the Tumatos. We were so sure that this was our plan; Bradley had even started to write something for that blog entry. We’ve been here two weeks. But why rush away? With our new friends, Justin and Anna from Ichiban and

Patrick from Ik’a, we have been poking around and enjoying ourselves immensely. We hiked over the ridge east of this bay to visit the beach in Baie d’Haatuatua which we had passed on our sail here. The blue ocean laps up this gorgeous golden beach, that I’ve tried to capture in a photo, but the water is full of jellyfish that get pushed in by the winds and current and the beach is teeming with nonos. Tiny bloodsuckers. They are relentless and the nasty red bite they leave itches like crazy for almost two weeks. I have learned that both coconut milk and lime juice are natural insect repellents. Grate a coconut, squeeze the milk from the gratings and rub all over. You smell good and your skin becomes baby-bottom soft and the nonos will avoid you! Lime works though after scratching existing bites there are a few moments of teeth-clenching stinging while you rub the half a lime on your scratched up skin.

Tra, Patrick, Justin and Anna

This hike was not just to soak up the view; we had also learned there is a farm just over the ridge. The friendly farming family gave us buckets to collect fresh tomatoes, eggplants, parsley, cantaloupe, watermelon, mangos, papayas and pamplemous. We just finished the tomatoes a couple nights ago. Maybe we should go back for more and stay just one more night. We’ve also hiked over the ridge to the west. Patrick, our tireless interpreter, had become friendly with the guide who took him pig hunting and we would go there to visit him. When we had first learned of Patrick’s adventure, Bradley’s eyes lit up and I knew that we couldn’t leave these islands until he had gone pig hunting in the hills of Nuka Hiva. We hiked the switchbacks straight up the ridge and we’re rewarded with a fantastic view of Baie d'Anaho and only our three boats anchored below. The hike down was full of pauses as we picked mangos, sliced and devoured them. We arrived at Nui’s place in Baie d’Haithau after a brief beer break and some deep fried shrimps at the only restaurant.

Baie d'Anaho

Horses, puppies and a most welcoming host determined our tentative plans to stay the night. There was, after all, a party at the community hall for Bastille Day to attend. Music, dancing, bbq and the drinks particularly, ensured our place in local history proven by the waves and shouts of “Brad Pitt warrior!” (You can ask Bradley about the particulars later) we heard the next day as we began our walk back home to the boats.

Bradley and I returned to Baie d’Haithau two days later for a horseback riding, pig hunting adventure with Nui, leaving our sweet Suuhaa in the care of our friends. I had no plans to pig hunt but we figured a three day horseback ride through the gorgeous Nuka Hiva environment could not be missed. At Nui’s place we were served lunch, offered a shower and introduced to our horses. Gringo for me and BonBon for

The view from Nui's kitchen window.

Bradley. Nui would ride his horse and his new young
unbroken horse would be our packhorse. It was about 5:00pm when we left and would ride for 3-4 hours to the beach where we would sleep. It got dark quickly and it began to pour down thick tropical drops of rain. It’s very warm here, we weren’t cold and our jackets kept us dry. The problem with the rain was it determined where we could sleep which was not on the beach but on the concrete floor of a wall-less shed. Nui carefully spread out the damp burlap sacks which had been between our WOODEN saddles and the horses’ backs, with me getting a couple extra for “comfort.” I didn’t sleep that night, Bradley, who is made of tougher stuff, snored happily away to the sounds of the waves breaking on the beach in front of us.

In the morning Nui made us coffee and we snacked a small breakfast before saddling up and beginning a 5 hour ride. We rode up through a peaceful village of about 100 people to a single file trail into the jungle. About 100 feet up this trail, Nui stopped and told us that we would need to go fast up this part, gestured that it was uphill and we should hold on to the mane of our horses as we went. Holy crap, this trail was straight up and the horses needed to gallop to make it. I’m pretty sure I had my eyes closed, trusting that Gringo knew her way and would keep up with BonBon and Bradley. At the top, we slid off our sweating horses to give them a break, collected our shaken wits and looked around. We were on top of a high ridge, high enough to see bay after bay and miles of ocean. This island is stunning. 

Up and down mountain ridges we rode. Under low hanging branches, over coconuts and were rewarded each time with a break in yet another beautiful bay. The final ride down was into the valley Nui’s family owns, 800 hectares of paradise. The valley falls steeply into lush greenness and then opens to a beautiful beach on the ocean. Nui’s father opened his home to us even giving us his bed to sleep. I’m pretty sure that I was the reason for such generosity. Our friend Patrick had slept in a much more rustic place and I feel confident assuming that if Bradley had been alone he would have shared that experience – not the soft big bed experience. Oh and I had a shower. A long fantastic shower which was worth more to me than hunting down a pig. Alas, the pig hunt did not happen. But while we were sitting in the shade drinking fresh lime-ade and devouring pamplemousses, Nui and Bradley discussed having a true Marquesan experience. As can be expected, some things were probably lost in the translation and it was on our way back from our little walk to beach later that Nui’s dad pulled up to us in his pick up. Through gestures and a few key words Bradley realized what was being asked. Would he like to go with him to shoot a bull? We jumped in the truck, Bradley in the front and me in the back next to the Winchester, yup – loaded. With uncles, brothers and cousins in the back, we bumped back towards the beach to where the all the bovine hang. Everyone disembarked but I stayed in the truck listening to the radio. This was going to be a little beyond my capacities. I did hear the two shots and shortly thereafter a brother came to get me and the truck. Back we drove across the field to the gang of paradise ranchers standing around a dead bull with Bradley smacked dab in the group – grinning. The truck was backed up and everyone (but me, again, I stayed in the truck facing forward) heaved and hoed and hoisted that massive beast into the back of the truck. We drove 50 feet to a tree with a strong low branch. This is when Brad opened my door and said that I probably would want to go back to the house. I bounced out of the truck and never looked back. I went and had that glorious shower and a nap. 

Now, I wasn’t there to see the slaying or the butchering of the animal but Brad told me that it was pretty awesome to see.  First, when they all left to shoot the bull, it definitely wasn’t a hunt; more of a wandering around picking out bulls and then discussing if that bull was a good choice - sort of like shopping. After a consensus was reached, the uncle leveled the gun and POW POW, Mr. Bull went down. They bled him then and there and that’s when I showed up in the truck. After I had walked away, they noosed that poor beast and hung him from the tree. It was a family affair as the bull was butchered, solely with machetes (no sawzalls!), and quartered and divided up between the families. They didn’t give Bradley a machete but one older uncle hacked him off a piece of rib eye, squeezed a lime on it (which he cut of a tree that was right there) and Bradley snacked on raw beef. Brad came back dirty and a little bloody and pretty pleased with this true Marquesan experience. Needless to say later that night we dined on fresh fillet mignon for dinner. 

We rose early the next morning, helped Nui saddle the horses and began our 5 hour ride back to his place. It was a long hot ride, Brad got stung in the neck by a wasp (this was actually the second sting in the neck – I guess he’s not allergic) and also had technically difficulties with his riding equipment a couple times. During the second incident the pack horse he was leading decide to stop and have a snack while we were galloping up hill and Gringo’s reins came apart and a stirrup broke and our man was tossed to the ground. Not to worry, he stood up mostly ok. Poor Nui was mortified and the horses were shouted at but Bradley dusted   When we finally arrived back at Nui’s, we were feed more fresh beef, offered a shower and a nap before a hot hike back to Baie d’Anaho and our floating home. We were fortunate once more since during a brief stop at the store before the hike we saw a young guy we had met at the party and he offered us a ride in his speedboat back to Baie d'Anaho. This is no sweet trip around the corner; we came out of Baie d’Hatiheu and around Point Temoe into seas Brad says are like those around the Charlottes. Jacob expertly navigated the swells, the waves and currents and saved us a sweaty and buggy hike. 

himself off and was reaffirmed in his decision to be a sailor – not a cowboy.

We stayed in Baie d’Anaho a few more days. New local friends Brad had made when he worked on their outboard had us over for dinner, gave us copious amounts of fruit and half a goat. We were also given a bottle of Raiku. Raiku is the local brew. The alcohol is very expensive here and the locals make and drink this “coconut beer.” It’s not really legal; I would liken it to moon shining. It can be made with anything growing on the island. Coconuts, breadfruit or even mangoes which are what we have been using. We have had gifts of many different varieties and some have been terrible (very vinegar-ie) and others have been delicious. Justin on Ichiban is also working on mango version and he and Brad have many discussions about their mash and when it will be ready. Actually, the first batch was ready a few days ago and the five of us had a great time drinking MangoHooch that Brad brewed. We are looking forward to Justin’s vintage as it should be ready next.

 

Currently we are back in Baie de Taiohae after circumnavigating the island with Ichiban and Ik’a with a

couple of stops along the way. We will re-provision here, use the internet and phones and then continue to the Tuamotus soon. Our plans, as they stand at this moment, are to only stop for a couple nights in those atolls before moving on to Tahiti. Then again, we were only going to stay in the Marquesas for two weeks…

Les Îles Marquises

Ua Pou

To sum up the trip down from the captain’s point of view, crew and vessel exceeded expectations. I enjoyed every moment other than the calms, but 39 days is a long time. It is kind of a major thing but it doesn’t seem like a big deal now that we are here.  At sea each day is much the same as the day before. You just deal with things like you would anywhere else though land keeps getting farther away. The thing is, is that you can’t comprehend the distance; you always think that land is just over the horizon. I thought a lot about it after we arrived and figured I wouldn’t be talking Tra into a 40 day passage anytime soon but now, after 3 weeks here I think she would go in a second if told her there were islands more beautiful than these at the end of it. Anyway, Suuhaa performed, no major weather incidents and we caught more fish than we could eat. Good times all round.

We spent our first week in the Marqueses anchored in Baie Takauku, the harbor for the town of Atuona on the Island of Hiva Oa. We arrived late in the afternoon on a Friday and had resigned ourselves to be quarantined on the boat till Monday morning when the Gendarme would be back at work to clear us in. On Saturday morning I was up  

early with the skiff in the water and rowed over to a neighbouring boat flying the solid yellow “Q” flag (meaning they also were not cleared in) and soon found out from our new friends, Bruce and Cheryl, that all was good and as long as we checked in on Monday no one would mind if we landed. They had done some leg work and as it happened they were about to meet an agent who, for a very reasonable price, took care of it all: customs, immigration, bond exemption and a duty free fuel permit. Next thing we knew we were on shore hiring and supplying the agent with photo copies of our papers.

Atuona is the second largest settlement of the islands (pop 1500) and is a convenient port of entry for yachts arriving from the east. The harbor is frequented buy supply ships from Papeete, Tahiti and yachts anchor further into the harbor to accommodate them. There is a constant swell requiring you to set a stern anchor. The town, although reported to be half a mile walk is actually about 3km. We walked this numerous times but often would get a ride from a passing local. The town has a few stores, a hospital, bank, hardware store, post office, two restaurants and a Paul Gagnon museum. There were also a few vendors selling produce and eggs from the back of a truck.  

We spent our first week here getting organized but between the heat and being mute in French we didn’t get much done. Take internet for example, we bought time from the local provider who basically delivers the service via cell towers as a “hot spot” but with only one bar of reception it wasn’t possible to stay connected long enough to do anything constructive. In town we tried at the post office where they had a computer for public use. This was even worse as the letters on the keyboard were in all the wrong places and the written instructions and friendly human assistance were in French. After a half hour of getting somewhere in 90 degree heat the connection reset and we lost everything. I had a spaz and we went back to the boat. Frustrations aside, we enjoyed our first week immensely. We met many cruisers, all of who were very impressed we came straight from Canada (even though it is only 200nm farther than Panama). The first night was “cook’s night off” and we devoured French pizza accompanied by huge goblets of wine. As far as general comfort goes, we are in very good shape. I was worried about how hot the cabin would get but the breezes always seem to blow and keep the cabin a very comfortable temperature. The bugs have also not been too bad; they are terrible on the beach but the biting ones have not made it to the boat yet. Tra is my best insect repellent, they find her juicier than me.

Baie d'Hanamonea

We did make a short visit to the local hospital after I carved another Merganser gash into my right hand. We steri-stripped  it up and when we saw the doctor the next day, he promptly ripped them off, said it was too late for stitches (which I had repeatedly told Tra he would say) and sent us on our way, wound gaping once again. Keeping it dry the next few days was a challenge (there is a nice little surf break in Atuona) and Tra had to row the dinghy everywhere. This was a great source of entertainment for all the other captains in the bay.  At the time of this writing, it’s all healed up and I have a handsome scar as a souvenir.  

tikis

After a week in Atuona with supplies, stores, water (R.O. quit), and fuel on board we departed for the neighboring island of Tahuata. We sailed across the channel to the south and around the N.W. corner of Tahuata where slightly down the eastern shore lies what some have called one of the most beautiful anchorages in the South Pacific, Baie Hanamoena. We anchored in the middle of the bay amongst 12 other boats in crystal clear water. We knew a number of the boats from our stay in Atuona and were promptly invited to a beach bbq. 

We spent 4 nights in this paradise. Our activities included diving for lobster, fishing, and hunting chicken and wild boar. All of which we were miserably unsuccessful. During these pursuits we were able to enjoy some unexpected successes. While diving for lobster we got to see manta rays, barracuda, moray eels and a few 6 foot reef sharks. I caught numerous small fish though we did not eat them as the risk of Ciguatera poisoning is high in this particular bay. During our hunting escapades Tra was able to pick fruit which we are still eating.  The end of each day was filled mainly with drinking wine while strumming the ukulele for my appreciative audience of one. 

Chicken hunting

Wild limes

Our next stop was Baie D’Hakahau, the main harbor on the island of Ua Pou. After an overnight motor sail from Tahuata, we pulled in and set two anchors in what might be the shadow of the most dramatic skyline I have ever seen. Ua Pou was a nice stop and I got to catch a few waves at a surf break I could paddle to from the boat. We enjoyed a music festival and Marquesian BBQ. Best of all we found lettuce at the general store and had a massive Caesar salad for dinner! After 4 nights there we sailed the 25nm channel to Nuka Hiva.

Daniel’s Bay is located on the S.W. corner of the Island of Nuka Hiva. It has been a long time favorite of cruising sailors because of the awesome beauty, a hike to the third highest waterfall in the world and the warm hospitality of a local named Daniel. It was further made famous by a certain reality T.V. show. Supposedly the T.V. show flattened Daniels house so he’s gone. We made friends with a local couple and found out all the villagers got paid a bunch of money to move out of their homes for 3 months of filming. They all were pretty pleased with the cash.  We met Teiki and Kua on our hike up to the water fall as we trespassed on their property. Kua waved us over to talk, but it was her husband Teiki I was looking at and little unsure. Here came this dude with a Mohawk, giant bone through his ear and tattoos covering one half of his face, head and body. I was soon put at ease by his smile and we were then invited to lunch after our hike. 

Daniel's Bay

Wild boar hunting

The hike to waterfall was fantastic; it was 4-5km up a deep jungle valley along a trail built by a civilization I know nothing about. Everywhere you looked were the remnants of the stone platforms that the Marquesians built their houses upon. The entire trail was build like the sea to sky highway - on top of a wall. The waterfall plunged off a mountain top into a box canyon that was so high and narrow the sun only shines for a few minutes a day. After lunch we ended up spending the day getting to know Teiki and Kua. Teiki kept us entertained with coconut husking competitions and stories of his great hunting and fishing escapades. He gave me all kinds of fishing tips and I am now committed to returning to smuggle 22 shells for him. The next day we returned with gifts of fish hooks and chocolate chip cookies. 

After Daniel’s Bay we sailed in the company of two other boats for a squally 5nm passage to windward and arrived at the main town of the islands, Taiohae. Here we anchored amongst about 30 other boats to take fuel and provisions (water maker is working again!).  The demographic of the “cruising community” has been quite a surprise. We were pretty sure we would be hanging out with old people and often joked about this before we left. Turns out, there are lots of couples in the 55+ range but there are almost as many couples our age and many with multiple kids. Kids younger than yours too. I overheard a guy saying he and his wife are staying here for two months to deliver a baby! Wow! So our best hope of finding work is probably starting a floating day care!

From here we will be sailing around Nuka Hiva to Baie Anaho for a couple of days before we depart for the 500nm crossing to the Tuamotu archipelago. We are only planning a few nights there and will then continue to the island of Tahiti.

That's a hammerhead!